Monthly Archives: October 2017

Gilan to Taipei via Sãtiau Kak

Set out at Gi-Lan at about 10:30am, rounded the cape at Sãtiau-Gak lighthouse, passed Hok-Liong beach, went through the Ping-Siang tunnel, then passed through Ping-khe and Chhim-khenn. Personal record: >100km. Weather generally good, but there were three surprise downpours before i rounded the cape. The owner of the B&B I stayed at had given me some rainwear, which I was thankful for, but it was a bit of a hassle to pack and unpack. next time – maybe wear quick-drying clothing, and it wont matter if I get wet.

Everything from Gi-lan up to the Peng-Siang tunnel was relatively peaceful, with wide shoulders or dedicated bike lanes. There were scenic stops, but the nature of cycling is that the countryside rolls by at a scenic pace, from ibises on the fields to fishermen on the sandy beach, to huge rolling waves crashing into rock strata. Downpours aside, there were occaisional light showers that did not block outbthe sun, and I was happy for these, as they cooled me off.

At about 2, I stipped for lunch at 品逸屋, which boasted locally caught seafood. I had 鰾, which I thought was a type of fish, but I learned is the air bladder of a fish. It was cooked in a good sauce of celery, chilis, leeks, and touban sauce. I will try to make this. I scarfed it down with three bowls of rice. The proprietress asked me when i paid – did you eat your fill? Yes, I told her simply.

I could have had a fourth, but I didnt want to become sluggish.

Ping-khe to Chhim-khenn was dangerous. Visibility limited by curves. Traffic flowing but heavy. Narrow shoulder. Jockeyed for position with cars. Reminds me of highway 17 to Santa Cruz, but here the tighter curves limit the speed of traffic. On the balance, more dangerous, as people take mire risks. At first, I stayed close to the shoulder, but took to occupying the entire lane when I found I was just as fast as the cars, especially as I could corner faster. Any distance that opened up on a straight stretch, I could gain back on cornering.

I got passed by two ambulances, and saw two accidents on the stretch from Ping-khe to Chhim-khenn alone. Emerging from Chhim-khenn, I got passed by another ambulance.

It was my second time riding that stretch. The first time, I saw a car marked off by police tape, with its front end wrapped around a telephone pole. There was a spider web cracking of the windshield on the driver’s side which must have been made my the driver’s head.

Arrived home about 5. After that adventure, it is a privelege to be able to fix up a dinner with stuff in the fridge and not to have to go out.

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